Beautiful

Category: Cycling

Beautiful

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Today was pretty rough, from the industrial landscape and air pollution,

airpollution3

to the continuous increase of both temperature and gradient, the gross taste of the water in all three of my water bottles and a minor bout of food poisoning in the which made me think I might be sick over the side of my bike.

There was, however, a moment that made it worthwhile. When I pulled over in a small dusty town, hoping the upset stomach had passed and hoping to find some food to fuel the next 60km, a woman stepped out from behind her stall and beckoned me over, grinning. She cooked up a steaming bowl of noodles, to which I was free to add whatever I chose from the line of bowls on the next table. She kept staring at my bike and then back at me, smiling and chattering away to me in rapid Chinese.

After I paid and just before putting my helmet and gloves back on, we had this conversation (in Chinese):

“Thank you. Very good food.”
“You’re welcome.”
“Excuse me, may I take your photo?”
“Me?”
“Yes. Beautiful.”
“Not beautiful.”
“Beautiful.”
She takes off her apron and pushes back her hair.
I take the photo.
I show her the photo on the back screen, point and say “Beautiful.”
“Thank you.” She says, smiling. She stands outside her stall and waves as I pedal off. I can still see her when I turn around at the intersection.

Noodle lady

Beautiful.

Comments

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    Chloe

    Cool story, those moments are so special. Mmmm I love noodle soup! - posted on June 1, 2014

    Sarah ward

    Love. - posted on June 1, 2014

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Riding the G321

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I am writing this while perched awkwardly on a chair. Let’s just say that sitting down, after 8 hours of sitting down on a bicycle seat, is rather unpleasant. Well, it is when the roads look like this:

Road

Apart from that, life as a muddy cyclist continues to be pretty great. I have now ridden about 970 kilometres, most of it along the same road, the once trusty, and as of today, now hated G321. 

Some of my favourite parts of those 970 include:

Cycling among the karst mountains near Yangshuo,

me1

Where the scenery was stunning.

Yangshuo1

The town itself had a pretty nice setting,

Yangshuo2

And although it was overwhelming in the streams of tourists milling about, it was nice to have a proper conversation.

It’s always great to meet other cyclists, like cowboy Song Rei,

Song Rei

Or these guys heading to Tibet (apparently the Mecca of Chinese cycling)

Cyclists!

Chinese food. Ahhh, yes, the glorious food.

Big bowls of rice noodles,

dw9

noodles

Delicious tofu (which the lady drowned in chilli which I sneakily scraped off around the corner), tofu2

And ice creams that cost 20 NZ cents. ice cream

I love wandering around town in the evenings and coming across interesting scenes, like a small group of people doing exercises turn quickly into a MASSIVE group of people doing exercises,

dw7

Or beautiful buildings,

Guilin1

Or a talent show,

dw6

Or an amazing bridge,

b5

bridge4

Or a lovely old man serenely doing water calligraphy on the street. He did offer me a turn, but as the only character I could think of off the top of my head is the one for ‘congee’, I declined.

cll2

call1

Or this amazing band. One of their songs was just incredible. I had no idea what they were saying, but just stood there enjoying the moment.

band

I have cycled far above the mist-covered hills,

ld2

Which is incredible, even if I often look like this at the top…

Me broken

It is particularly rewarding when, while recovering at the top, this guy walks past. He seemed to find me as interesting as I found him.

turtleguy

The trusty G321 has taken me through through little villages,

village1

Past rice terraces,

Longsheng1

And more incredible bridges,

Bridge1

bridge2

As always, there are some low points, such as my current sitting difficulty, but nothing that comes near to competing with all the reasons to get back on my bike tomorrow.

Comments

View
    rbphoto

    Thanks Sarah! I am rather envious of the idea of soft seat cushions right now... :) Hope all is well with you! :) - posted on June 1, 2014

    rbphoto

    Thanks Liz! Great to hear from you. Hope you had a wonderful time in the BOI and the rest of NZ! - posted on June 1, 2014

    sally wells

    Methinks that Legs of Steel could be a good title for your memoir of this fantastic journey you are going on, and sharing with us as you head to the hills, and discover the natural beauty around you….Bloody Marvellous my friend..oh and the photos are Fabulous of course :) x - posted on May 30, 2014

    Sarah ward

    Hi Rachel, I'm cheering for you from the soft seat cushions of my couch. Loving the pictures and the blog, keep it up! - posted on May 28, 2014

    Liz

    Wow Rachel how fabulous! I love your comments about the exercise groups growing and growing. It reminded me of our time in Singapore when we were on route home from visiting your mum - we saw exactly the same thing.... take care but enjoy and experience x - posted on May 28, 2014

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The unspoken conversation

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I speak no Mandarin. I don’t think I can even count ‘Ni hao’ given that this is usually greeted with silent stares. I put the staring down to two possibilities: I’m either butchering the tones (highly likely) or the sight of a muddy, sweaty, giant foreign woman on a bicycle is too surprising to muster up a reply (quite possible). Despite my complete incompetence with their language, however, the Chinese I’ve met so far have really gone out of their way to communicate with me.

One example of this took place in a town called Deqing. I arrived early afternoon after my longest ride ever (101km), found a hotel, had a much needed shower and ventured out for some food. After hiding from the torrential rain outside a little shop (and almost losing my hearing to the screeching metal workshops on either side), I came across a little restaurant. I was greeted by smiles and rapid Chinese, to which I used the excellent acting abilities that I developed as an English teacher to mime eating. I was given a seat and a menu. Unsurprisingly I couldn’t read a thing. Eventually I located the character for ‘beef’. So I pointed to that one. They didn’t have it. So I pointed to another one at random. They didn’t have it. Another one. No luck.

A young boy playing on the computer was sent over to help me, apparently the English speaker of the family. He stared at me for a while before running back to the desk and returning with a sheet of paper. It was an English-Chinese vocabulary list from school. Scanning the page, I passed over ‘household items’ and ‘in the classroom’ until I got to ‘food’. Jackpot. I pointed to the words for ‘rice’ and ‘meat’. The young boy looked confused.

Somewhat at a loss of what to do, I went back to the menu, staring at it as if the characters were going to magically become intelligible. At the table beside me, the schoolboy was now being served his lunch. It looked pretty good, so I pointed at it. The lady smiled, darted into to the kitchen and came running back out again holding up some vegetables. I nodded. About five minutes later, a feast arrived on my table. A bowl of rice and a steaming plate of meat and greens cooked in a wonderful garlicky sauce.

Feast

As I was getting stuck into my meal, the boy had left his meal and raced back to the computer. Shortly after, a printed page appeared on my table: “For the first time you come to China.”

And so began the unspoken conversation. My new friend, his food completely forgotten, would run to the computer, type my sentence into Google Translate, type his reply in Chinese, translate it, write his reply down in English and run back.

This continued for quite some time.

Convo

The conversation had an audience: the entire family. Dad came out from the kitchen to see what was happening, the two waitresses stood by giggling and Grandma sat at the table looking proudly at her grandson.

I learnt a lot about my friend. His name is Long Jian Hong, he’s twelve years old, has two sisters and his favourite subject at school is maths. He showed me what my name looks like in Chinese and tried, very patiently, to teach me how to say a few phrases of Chinese.

Name

I could so easily have been seen as a burden, but they really went out of their way to welcome me warmly. So far, this has been the norm rather than the exception. After a photo session which involved me posing with a range of family members for a variety of cameras, I left the family, reminded of what this trip is all about: the people.

Me and friend

Me and lady

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Once upon a time…

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Once upon a time, I started cycling from Hong Kong to Scotland.

That was today.

Technically I didn’t start cycling in Hong Kong. In fact, you can see from the photo below that poor Rafiki (yes, he has a name) was left on the back of the ferry to mainland China to be hammered by the rain and waves. Not a very dignified start for him.

Boat

After loading up my steed in Gaoming we were off. I have to say, it was pretty surreal. Here I was, on a scarily heavy bike, in 35 degree heat and 80% humidity, in a place where I couldn’t read any of the signs and where no one seemed to understand my attempts at Chinese, about to start what could potentially be a multi-year trip. Luckily, I had my first challenge to distract me: navigation. If you know me, you may have possibly noticed that I am not exactly the best navigator (I can hear you sniggering from here Sarah). Thank you Mum for that inheritance.

Day 1

I did manage to find my way out of town and there was even a side road parallel to the 8 lane highway for bicycles, scooters and other slow vehicles. I continued on this road for a few hours after which it suddenly became a tiny one lane village road. Ok, I thought, at least it is nice and scenic. The little country lane then became a potholed, muddy mess. I, after squelching through the ankle-deep mud pushing Rafiki, also became a muddy mess. 

mud

 From there the road became rideable again and I cycled alongside the Xi river, taking in big factories belching out smoke smoke

and beautiful, greener than green fields.

green

I may possibly have spent over half an hour trying to find my way out of a little town of Jinli. At least I got to chat (and by ‘chat’ I mean speak at each other in our respective languages) to a very nice lady who brought her little boy over to see the funny sweaty woman who cycled past his school three times…

Finally leaving the my new friends behind, I successfully escaped Jinli and rode past (thankfully not up) mountains,

mountains

noisy goose farms, geese

and a lakeside village. Gaoming to Zhauqing 1

I made it to Zhaoqing by early afternoon, although it took another few hours (yes, hours) to locate my hostel. Note to self: learn to use my GPS.

I devoured this wonderfully green and garlicy meal

meal

Met this little guy

Cat1

and collapsed into bed.

 

70km down, only about another 13,000km to go!

 

 

 

 

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Hong Kong: High rises and pig ears

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To be honest, as a country girl, I didn’t expect to like Hong Kong, putting it in the “Singapore, Dubai and other concrete jungles” basket. Three days (and about twenty kilograms) later, I was a fan. I put it down the mountains in every direction, the sea, the markets, the food, and most importantly, one awesome human.

There is something very special about being met off the aeroplane in a new country. No matter how foreign the place may feel or how little of the language you can understand, once you catch a glimpse of that familiar face in the crowd, it’s not a foreign place anymore. So, it was with great excitement that I pushed my laden trolley out the doors of the airport and heard a loud “Rach!”. Straight away I forgot that I was about to start a rather crazy trip and instead found myself enjoying three days of laughter, eating and exploring Hong Kong.

First there was the food.

Some of it was new to me, like pig ear…

hk14

Goose intestine…

hk9

Thousand year old eggs…

hk6

And an array of internal organs… (later that day I asked Ferorsa what something was, “Oh, that’s like an internal organ kebab.” Hm, of course!)

hk12

Others were recognisable and delicious.

Like rice noodle roll drowned in amazing sauce,

hk7

Spicy (as in eye-watering, nose-running spicy) Sichuan noodle soup.

hk5

 

Hong Kong has a great vibe. It’s very alive.

Perhaps it is the mix of high-rises,

hk3

Glitzy malls,

hk10

Old streets,

hk11

Markets,

hk13

Temples,

hk4

 

Of course, the place could actually be a hole and I just have a completely biased opinion, given that I got to spend the weekend there with this wonderful woman:

Ferorsa

 

Hong Kong – thanks for being an awesome place to kick off the adventure. Mainland China, here I come!

Comments

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    Brita Marti

    What a fun start. Hope food continues to be a highlight! Xxx - posted on May 18, 2014

    susi

    you make me laugh Rachel, you always have, please don't stop what you are doing! hugs and love from your Liddi's.x - posted on May 16, 2014

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5 reasons why this trip was amazing before it started

| |

So, I’m packed and ready to go. Well, as long as ‘ready’ can be defined as feeling a combination of excitement and ‘ahhh, what am I doing!’

Earlier this week I was telling someone how my trip has already been worth it. Officially it begins tomorrow, but in reality it started months ago. Here is why: Continue reading

Comments

View
    rbphoto

    Aw Genei-I, you have definitely made my world much more incredible! I really hope I get to see you along the way. And if not - let's Skype! Big big (arm-stretching required) hugs. xx - posted on May 12, 2014

    rbphoto

    Thanks Kiren! Hope to catch up with you somewhere along the way. Probably more likely than seeing if we are ever back in NZ at the same time eh?! xx - posted on May 12, 2014

    rbphoto

    Thanks Doreen! Glad to see it's not just my Mum that reads it :) Hope your new job is going well! xx - posted on May 12, 2014

    Bex

    Loved reading this mate. I agree with so many of the things you've put here. The world is a truly incredible place - made better by the wonderful people you meet along the way. If you need me, you know where I am. I would love to help you in any way (if you need it) love Genei-I xxx - posted on May 11, 2014

    Kiren

    That sounds so beautiful! :) I'm so excited for you and am looking forward to seeing more of your travels through your positive viewpoint! :) - posted on May 7, 2014

    Doreen Steiner

    I am really looking forward to your blog Rachel. I just know that you will have the most amazing adventure. All the very best of British xxxxx - posted on May 7, 2014

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2013: a photo summary.

|

To welcome the new year, I took a look back on the wonderful year that 2013 was.

Here it is in photos.

My 2013 began in Cambodia…
Cambodia01

Continue reading

Comments

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    Leigh Q-M

    You keep going girl!!!! Following you every post/pedal/photo all the way. - posted on June 3, 2014

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    Mary Anna! It's SO great to hear from you! As soon as I saw your comment I contacted Mum to share my excitement! Yes, I can completely identify with the 'Mac' from generations ago. I'm sure there is one there somewhere! The sailing wa'a sound amazing. I really hope to be in NZ to see them arrive, and more importantly, it would be so wonderful to see you back in NZ! Alice and I were talking about you the other day as we remembered our Spanish lessons from you :) Puedo hablar espanol (de alguna manera) pero ahora estudio el ruso y un poco mandarin entonces tengo una mezcla de lenguas en mi cerebro! I really hope everything is going well with you. I will definitely keep an eye out for information about the peace wa'a. Hope to see you soon! Big big hugs your way! xx - posted on May 12, 2014

    Susie

    Dear Rach! I really enjoyed reading your trip-preparations post and I just want to let you know that you are incredible!!! Also (I know it is a little late to mention New Year's), I loved your NY's photo tribute to 2013, it is beautiful!!! I wish you the best of luck and joy and health and love for your trip, keep up your inspiring writing-photographing-travelling spirit!!! Hugs from sunny Edinburgh!!! Susie - posted on May 12, 2014

    Mary Anna Enriquez

    Rachel!!! I have been through each page, each photograph, each story and I am thrilled! I recognize you and Alice and Sarah and your mum. Thank you for introducing me to Harry. Yes, he has a beautiful smile. It's uncanny how our lives are similar: I spent 3 1/2 weeks in Scotland last summer - Iona, Findhorn mostly. I so fell in love with the land I am sure there is a Mac in front of my name from generations ago. I spent the rest of my time in Wales where I fell further in love, mostly in the Pembrokeshire area. It was wonderful to see the R Tucker Thompson in your "story". I work with photographers all the time because one of my other jobs is a wedding coordinator. You need to know that two Hawaiian sailing wa'a (canoes) will be in your area at the end of the year. They are on a Worldwide Voyage for Peace. The theme is Mālama Honua, take care of the Earth. I will let Leadership know there is a photographer ready and waiting! I am part of the crew for the Voyage. It would be so fabulous to be on the Leg to NZ so I could see you and your family. Please give my love to all. I am deeply proud of you. Your work is lovely and your words capture the essence of your passion. I truly can say, "I knew you when..." You were 5 when I met you and was introduced to tomatoes on toast with Marmite. - posted on May 5, 2014

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